As European summers get warmer – last year’s was the hottest on record, and the previous two summers have seen devastating forest fires in countries such as Portugal and Greece – holidaymakers are left pondering which side they’re on. Are you a heat-seeking missile, or are you too cool for school?
Come August, my loyalties now lie with one country: Switzerland. Don’t make the mistake of dismissing this central European country as middle of the road or bland, however. On the contrary, it ticks every box for the dream “coolcation” – and with more than enough warmth for the average sunseeker thrown in.
I began my Swiss adventures in Heidiland – quite literally, the land of Johanna Spyri’s Heidi. There was no hut with a cranky and solitary grandfather for me, though. Instead, I checked into Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, a five-star delight in the eponymous spa town. Located just an hour’s train journey from Zurich (be sure to sit on the left for glorious lake views), I was instantly enthralled. As well as the permanent artworks dotted throughout the resort’s expansive and colourful grounds, my visit coincided with the 9th Swiss Triennial of Sculpture (the next takes place in 2027). Ambling through the gardens, it was hard not to smile at other visitors, many of whom weren’t hotel guests, posing for photos with the large scale works.
The steep hike up to Tamina Gorge, the source from which the spa’s healing waters flow, takes around an hour – easily manageable in warm sunshine softened by mountain air. On the return leg, I headed straight to the baths, where temperatures range from a bracing 17 degrees to a sweat-inducing 39. My favourite? The Baroque-style Helena Bath, which is said to be a love monument to a Russian princess and features a decorative relief ceiling, marble columns, mosaic tiling and dramatic lighting. It felt like swimming in a work of art.
After two nights of wonderful food and utter relaxation, I left Bad Ragaz for Basel, taking another seamless (2.5 hours) train journey. A word of appreciation for Swiss trains: not only are they impressively punctual, but they’re beautifully clean and cool. Air-conditioning is indisputably a plus when you’re travelling in warm weather and hope to reach your destination without being a sweaty mess.
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With its blend of modern and historic architecture, Basel instantly won my heart. The Kunstmuseum is home to the world’s oldest art collection, spanning eight centuries and holding around 300,000 artworks, ranging from medieval religious paintings to works from Gauguin, Matisse and Cezanne. There’s also a number of Picassos, two of which were in danger of being sold to settle a business debt, and four donated by the artist himself when he learned how the public had rallied around to keep the original two in situ.
There are more than 40 museums in Basel and you can visit most of them (and other cultural institutions) at a 50 per cent discount with the BaselCard, which comes as a given with any hotel booking. It also grants benefits such as free public transport and reduced bike hire. It’s a great incentive to give Airbnb a miss.
August’s average temperature in Switzerland’s so-called cultural capital is a balmy 25 degrees and, as tempting as it was to perch on the edge of the fountain outside the museum, my feet refreshingly plunged in the water – a common, and actively encouraged, warm weather pastime for residents – I had my brand new Wickelfisch in tow.
This waterproof swim bag is ubiquitous in Basel, where it was conceived in response to a chemical spill in the 1980s, which sullied the Rhine and killed off much of its aquatic life. The river was cleaned up and a local, Tilo Ahmel, devised a fish-shaped drybag in honour of the lost marine life.
Is it possible to speak highly enough of the Wickelfisch? What a brilliant invention for a brilliant city, where the river flows north, having changed from its westerly direction at the Rhine Knee, also located in Basel.
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I joined the after-work crowds on the small strip of beach below Museum Tinguely, stripping down to my swimmers and shoving my clothes, phone and wallet into my Wickelfisch (they’re available to buy, in various sizes, all over town, but you can rent one from the tourist office, if you prefer). “Wickel” is German for “wrap”, which is how the contents of the bag stay dry: fold the mouth of the bag down seven times, and buckle it closed. I secured the long strap around my waist, stepped into the river and was carried downstream by the Rhine’s gentle current. At times, I lay cheek-down on my stomach; sometimes I flipped over onto my back and used the Wickelfisch as a headrest to gaze skywards.
A three-kilometre drift later, and I began to swim to the side to hoist myself up onto one of the many ladders lining this side of the Rhine and clamber on to the bank. I was tempted to walk upriver and do the whole thing again, but the buvettes lured me in with their presence.
Buvettes – pop-up food and drink trucks, surrounded by seating – are a feature of a Basel summer. With an Aperol in hand and my swimsuit drying out beside me, I was content to people-watch until the sunset began to tinge the sky – but equally determined to get back in the water the following day.
First, though, a walking tour, which I’ve undertaken in hotter climes and swiftly regretted. Not so in Basel, which is easily navigable on foot and came to life with my guide’s knowledge. My favourite takeaway? Bernoulli’s tomb in Basel Minster Church. The Swiss mathematician is known for his connection with the logarithmic spiral, naming it the spira mirabilis and requesting that it be engraved on his tombstone, but unfortunately, the stonemason carved him an Archimedean spiral instead. You had one job…
Another relaxed train ride transported me to Lausanne, where Lake Geneva beckoned tantalisingly from my hotel windows. As in Bad Ragaz, I decided that some time on foot would make my time in the water all the more enjoyable. I wandered the city’s Old Town, cobblestones underfoot and historical buildings on every side – including the Gothic Notre Dame Cathedral with its 13th-century rose window. In the nearby Palud Square, the market was in full swing, bursting with fresh produce vivid enough to rival the colourful fountain in the square’s centre.
With a Choco-Tour pass in my hand, however, I had other indulgences on my mind. The pass allows you to visit any five of eleven chocolatiers in Lausanne and pick up a selection of free chocolates, as well as enjoying a discount on any purchases. Later, after exploring Sauvabelin – Lausannne’s green lung – and climbing the 302 steps of its panoramic tower, I felt that I’d deserved not only the confections, but some time in the water.
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An hour later, I was cycling my legs on a pedalo out into the middle of Lake Geneva, diving off its rear and bobbing about blissfully, until its drift forced me to swim after it. The mountains in the background formed a view even more beautiful than the sea-meets-sky beach horizon I’ve always loved.
Switzerland, for me, has always been associated with winter sports: I’d never before considered it as a summer destination. My mistake, and one I’m not likely to make again.
Sarah Rodrigues travelled as a guest of switzerland.com, Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, Lausanne Tourist Board and Basel Tourist Board.
Getting there
Flights from London with Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) start from £76 to Zurich one way and from £54 to Geneva.
Travel Switzerland offers international visitors unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £229/€268 for a three-day second-class ticket. Under 16s travel/enter for free when accompanied by an adult in possession of a pass.
