A Pocket Guide to the World’s Modernist Architecture

by oqtey
Condé Nast Traveler

The below is an excerpt from the writer’s new book, Modernist Travel Guide, which features nearly 400 of his favorite works of modernist architecture to visit in 30 cities around the world, from Antwerp and Buenos Aires to Sao Paulo and Stockholm, and was recently published by Sight Unseen.

For more than 20 years, I have been fascinated by modernist design and architecture. In order to see and document unique examples of 20th-century architecture and design, I began traveling to these jewels of creativity, photographing them and sharing their histories both on my Instagram account, @okolo_architecture, as well as in magazines like Wallpaper, World of Interiors, and Prague-based Dolce Vita, where I’ve been an editor since 2009.

Adam Štěch

Adam Štěch is a Prague-based theorist, journalist, and curator in design, architecture, and the visual arts. He is the author of two books, Inside Utopia (Gestalten, 2017) and Modern Architecture and Interiors (Prestel, 2020). He has traveled to more than 50 countries to document thousands of examples of modernist architecture and design.

At the time of writing, I’ve visited almost 50 countries on five continents to explore nearly 10,000 design landmarks—not only offices and houses, but also bars, cafés, galleries, museums, and hotels. My travels to experience these places brings me pure joy, which I hope to share with others through this pocket guide featuring 30 major global cities, each including 10–14 highlights to add to your future travel itineraries.

Of course, as a journalist and historian, I was offered special access to many of the private interiors in this book. But even for locations that don’t allow public entry—as noted throughout—it’s a privilege simply to be able to stand in the street and admire a beautiful relic of 20th-century architecture, and it’s my privilege to be able to guide you on these journeys.

The Bottiglieria Bulloni in Milan features a ceramic mural by Futurist Enrico Prampolini.

Bottiglieria Bulloni, Milan

In 1933, Futurist designer Enrico Prampolini created original decorative lighting fixtures and a ceramic mural for the interior of Bottiglieria Bulloni, still visible in the small bar today.

Via Lapari 2, Milan, Italy, public space

Struckus House in Los Angeles is Bruce Goff’s final built project.

You may recognize the Sheats-Golstein Residence from its starring role in The Big Lebowski.

Struckus House, Los Angeles

With this house, designed for aeronautical engineer Al Struckus, the American master of organic architecture Bruce Goff left a powerful testament. His final built project, and his only private residence in California, is a playful but commanding union of space and form inside a cylindrical tower.

4510 Saltillo Street, Los Angeles, California, visible only from the street

Sheats–Goldstein Residence, Los Angeles

Perhaps the most emblematic work of John Lautner—and one of the most well-known buildings in Hollywood film and popular culture—is this residence built for artist Helen Taylor and her husband, Paul Henry Sheats. In 1972, the property was purchased by entrepreneur and architecture aficionado James Goldstein, who let Lautner remodel and extend the design, including all of the furnishings, until his death in 1994.

10104 Angelo View Drive, Los Angeles, California, may be open upon request; email info@jamesfgoldstein.com

Karolinum in Prague is one of the few projects of modern architecture allowed by the new Communist government following World War II.

A dramatic chandelier shoots down the spiral stairwell at Prague’s New Scene of the National Theatre.

Karolinum, Prague

After World War II, modern architecture was all but prohibited by the new Communist government. Only a few quality projects originated at that time, among them this reconstruction of the historical Charles University headquarters, designed by Jaroslav Frágner and influenced by Carlo Scarpa’s Venice restoration projects

Ovocný trh 560/5110 00 Prague – Staré Město, Czech Republic, public space

The New Scene of the National Theatre, Prague

A leading figure of Czech Modernist architecture, Karel Prager employed new construction technologies and materials to build experimental public and governmental buildings like this one, completed in 1983. Inside, the walls are blanketed with Cuban green marble, and a dramatic chandelier by Pavel Hlava and Jaroslav Štursa cascades down the spiral stairwell.

Národní 1393110 00 Prague – Nové Město, Czech Republic, public space

Cairo’s All Saint’s Cathedral is capped with concrete spikes reminiscent of a crown.

All Saints Cathedral, Cairo

Concrete spikes reminiscent of a crown are highlights of the expressive architecture of this cathedral, designed by architects Awad Kamel Fahmy and Selim Kamel Fahmy in 1988.

5 Michel Luffallah Street, Zamalek Giza, Egypt, public space

Palais de la Porte Dorée in Paris has intricate rooms by Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Eugène Printz.

Palais de la Porte Dorée, Paris

A 1931 Art Deco gem designed by Albert Laprade, Léon Jaussely, and Léon Bazin, with a façade by Alfred Janniot and rooms by Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann and Eugène Printz

293 Avenue Daumesnil, Paris, France, public space

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