The Historic Columbia River Highway Takes Visitors Through ‘Waterfall Alley’

• The Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway runs from Troutdale to The Dalles in Oregon. 
• Multnomah Falls, one of several waterfalls located along the route, is among the most beautiful in the world. 
• Popular scenic viewpoints include the Portland Women’s Forum and Rowena Crest Viewpoint. 

In the early 20th century, a group of idealists set out to build a road that would not only connect towns, but also showcase the raw beauty of the Columbia River Gorge. The result is the Historic Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway, which begins east of Portland, Oregon, and runs up the Columbia River Gorge at the base of Mount Hood, an active stratovolcano. The beauty of the drive is iconic—think moss-draped cliffs and cascading waterfalls. But the scenic byway is also a journey through one of the most ambitious feats of early American road design. 

The roadway was built in the 1910s and was, by some accounts, the first highway in the nation constructed specifically for scenic touring. The highway’s 70 miles provide direct access to some of the Pacific Northwest’s most iconic waterfalls—including Multnomah, Latourell, and Horsetail. On the other side of the highway, the Columbia River flows.

“The Historic Columbia River Highway was the first scenic highway in the United States, and the first highway to have roadway standards which helps to provide a consistent feel and quality to the trip on segments of the highway that are open for vehicles,” said Terra Lingley, the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area coordinator for the Oregon Department of Transportation, in an email interview with Travel + Leisure. She shares that the goal of the byway was “to build a rural highway to bring visitors to the Columbia River Gorge’s most breathtaking natural wonders and scenic vistas. They wanted the road to ‘lay lightly on the land’ and enhance the scenery instead of diminishing it.”

As a result, the Historic Columbia River Highway feels almost part of the natural surroundings—and it has plenty of pull outs and rest areas that were thoughtfully placed to highlight scenic vistas or provide access to one of the roadways’ many sites. Below is our guide to this National Historic Landmark that’s aptly nicknamed the “King of Roads” and “Waterfall Alley.”

Places to Visit

Portland Women’s Forum

One of the first places you’ll want to stop as you make the drive east from Portland is the Portland Women’s Forum. The viewpoint was named in honor of the women who helped preserve the site in the mid-20th century and offers one of the gorge’s most iconic panoramas—a sweeping, unobstructed gaze across the river valley, with the crown-like Vista House perched on its promontory in the distance. 

Lingley called the site “the quintessential gorge photo” and a tease of what’s to come.

Vista House at Crown Point

One of the most popular stops on the Historic Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway is Vista House, which is perched 733 feet above the Columbia River and was completed in 1918 as a memorial to Oregon pioneers. The octagonal stone structure was designed to offer travelers a moment of pause and perspective. You can step inside its marble interior or walk the perimeter balcony to take in a panoramic sweep of the Columbia River Gorge.

Latourell Falls 

One of the first major waterfalls along the Historic Columbia River Highway is also one of Lingley’s favorites. She notes that “Latourell is shockingly tall and fairly accessible from the highway,” but to see the fall’s iconic wooden bridges, you will want to take the Latourell Falls Loop Trail, which crosses over Henderson Creek.

Latourell plunges 224 feet over a basalt cliff and is considered one of the route’s more hidden gems. For more, visit its lesser-known neighbor, Bridal Veil Falls, which is hidden from the highway, but is accessible via a short hike.

Multnomah Falls

Multnomah Falls is the most-visited natural recreation site in the Pacific Northwest, which means you’ll need to prepare for crowds. But like most highly visited sites, there’s a reason it’s so popular—it’s one of the most beautiful waterfalls in the world. Multnomah is one of the tallest year-round waterfalls in the U.S., with a two-tiered cascade that drops a dramatic 620 feet.

You’ve likely seen the falls in photographs, but it feels different in person— mist rises from the lower plunge pool toward the arched Benson Bridge as the rhythmic rush of water echoes through the gorge. The area surrounding the falls also played an important part in the history of various Native tribes, including the Chinook, Wasco, and Klickitat. 

Horsetail Falls

Further up the gorge, Horsetail Falls spills 176 feet down a sheer rock face. The cascade is one of the closest to the Historic Columbia River Highway and Lingley calls it a favorite due to its “immediate gratification.” She adds that “during the rainy season, the flows can be so high that the spray reaches the Historic Highway and the plaza where you can watch the water cascading over the cliff.”

Horsetail is a great option for travelers with accessibility concerns, while those who want more can hike to Upper Horsetail Falls and see the cave that’s tucked behind the curtain of water.

Mitchell Point Tunnel

One of the newest sites on the historic highway is the Mitchell Point Tunnel, which mimics the original tunnel (once the route’s crown jewel). The tunnel is carved through a formidable mountain and features large windows that were carved out of rock to let the natural light in and to provide views of the Columbia River.

To access the newly opened tunnel, you’ll have to park at the small lot near eastbound Interstate 84 at Exit 58 and hike 2.7 miles in. The tunnel can only currently be reached on foot or bike.

Rowena Crest Viewpoint

A great way to end (or almost end) the drive is at the Rowena Crest Viewpoint east of the town of Mosier. The windswept viewpoint is a stark contrast to the mossy canyons found at the beginning of the drive. Here, golden grasslands replace waterfalls and the horizon seems to stretch forever. 

Rowena Crest is a great place to watch the sunset, and Lingley notes it is extra special in spring, noting that “the wildflowers are absolutely amazing in this section.”

How to Plan a Trip

The Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway runs west to east between the cities of Troutdale and The Dalles. It runs along the Oregon-Washington state line and the Columbia River, and parallels Interstate 84, where cars move at a much faster pace. The start of the byway is around 20 minutes east of downtown Portland by car, and it takes most travelers between three and five hours to experience in full. That said, if you want to make several stops and hike, you’ll need to budget for more time. 

It is important to understand that the drivable part of the Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway is broken into two main parts— from Troutdale east to Dodson and from Mosier east to The Dalles—but there are technically four drivable sections in total. All four sections are connected by the Historic Highway State Trail, which is not open to motorized vehicles. We found this map helpful in understanding the route. (All of the recommended stops above—except the Mitchell Point Tunnel—are located along the two main portions of the scenic byway.)

Before you journey down the Historic Columbia River Highway, check TripCheck.com for the latest conditions. The route is listed as Highway 100.

When to Go

The scenic byway is open year-round, but is extra spectacular in spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October).

Katie Kadlub, CEO of Visit Hood River, says, “In spring, you’ll enjoy vibrant wildflowers, stunning fruit blossoms along stretches that border fruit orchards, and powerful waterfalls. Autumn brings colorful foliage and pleasant temperatures.”

If you’d like to avoid the crowds, Kadlub recommends visiting on a weekday or during the early morning. She adds that in the late autumn and winter (November–February), “the scenery remains picturesque, the pace more relaxed, and the gorge feels tranquil and uncrowded.”

On weekends from Memorial Day to Labor Day, the byway is particularly busy. And since there is limited parking at some sites, it is always good to start the drive with a plan B, in case the parking lot at your plan A is full. 

Lingley reminds visitors to “only park in designated spots along the highway, obey all parking restrictions, and recognize that the highway is a working roadway that connects residents, visitors, and businesses alike. Be respectful of private property, and if the parking at your first destination is full, there are many other attractions to experience.”

To lessen your impact and parking woes (and to avoid paying for permits), consider taking the Columbia Gorge Express bus, which runs seven days a week up the scenic highway.

Where to Stay, Eat, and Drink

Portland

The Columbia River Highway Scenic Byway starts in Troutdale, which is around 20 minutes from downtown Portland by car. For this reason, Portland acts as an easy basecamp for the journey. 

Cascade Locks

The scenic byway runs right through the tiny town of Cascade Locks, which Kadlub calls “a quintessential former logging town-turned-destination, with the most amazing soft serve drive-through serving enormous swirl cones.” For cones, visit Eastwind Drive-In, which is right off the byway.

Hood River 

Hood River is one of the larger cities you’ll come by on this route, but it still has a small-town feel and just over 8,000 residents. It’s a great place to stay if you want to do a deeper dive into the waterfalls and sites along the byway or are curious about checking out Mount Hood, an active stratovolcano with great hiking and skiing.

“Hood River reminds me of a modern Old West—Oak Street has two-story brick buildings with unique and great shops on both sides. The highway is definitely the bustling heart of the city here. I enjoy parking and strolling the main drag to break up the drive,” said Kadlub.